Looking for Johnny Depp

Looking for Johnny Depp in the Lesser Antilles ~

WOW – Am I ever glad I booked my last vacation days with Star Clippers!  Unbeknownst to me (remember, I don’t have regular access to Internet), my sailing vessel was the ROYAL CLIPPER, known as the Greyhound of sailing ships!  Total number of guests was right around 200 and crew was 102.  As I arrived in Barbados, making my way to the sailing ship, I was reminded of the good time I had in Barbados just a few months after arriving at my Peace Corps site.  Here I was, closing out my service leaving and returning to Barbados.  It just seemed fitting.  My first impression was not super excited as the sails were down and it looked rather skeleton-like!  However, once aboard, I could see that I was about to be treated like a queen.  The Captain and First Mate greeted guests and a punch was swiftly pushed into my hand in a champagne glass.  I was given my cabin card and could not wait to go check out the room.  Nice!  The room was a decent size and two port holes.  WOW…Jeannette Wallace who is my Travel Agent and acted as me in the decision making did a fabulous job in the cabin placement!  I settled in and got ready to get some dinner at 7:30. I was escorted to a table with just one seat remaining and introduced to two couples who were on board with many others as a result of KLOVE radio.  The other guest was Bob Smith who quickly pulled out 43 cabin key cards and shared numerous cruise stories.  This however, would be his first on a sailing ship.  I was a bit nervous about sailing on the sea in a small vessel and ate light the first night with a pike option.  The ship headed out at 10PM for Union Island, Grenadines and most of us were on the Sundeck to watch our surroundings as we sailed out.  Before I headed to the upper deck, I met the cabin neighbor, Jennifer- also sailing solo.  We would spend a lot of time together over the next several days, but we weren’t   “glued at the hip”! 

If you look closely on the mid left, you will see a crew member mending......

The next day we would be in Grenadines and I would snorkel the first of many opportunities.  We were tendered in a small boat to the dock and spent about 4 hours on the beach.  I actually had enough sun after just an hour and tendered back to the Tropical Bar on the ship where I met John and Susan from Maine.  I asked what they did or used to do for a living (you never know about people my age) and she answered that HE is an engineer and SHE is a HOOKER!  I was pretty quick though and got it right when I asked if she hooks rugs! We would sit and watch a school of silver fish jumping and racing us as if in a competition.   I would eat lunch with a crew member from India.  I learned, as in many shipping jobs, he would be at sea many months before going home to his family for two short months.  At 6:30 PM the SOLO travelers met in the Library.  There weren’t many but enough to fill up dinner tables the rest of the week.  Among them, a man from Italy, who booked this specific trip to improve his ability to speak English.  Cesare is a gentle soul and again, a world traveler.    A couple traveling from England also joined the table.  Dinner for me was pork medallions.

Monday we would sail to Grenada where a fellow Peace Corps volunteer had met with his mother, father, twin sister and aunt for the week.  We had previously planned to meet up and explore once I got to shore.  The plan worked! It didn’t take long for us to find each other and they drove straight away to Grand Anse Beach, one of the most famous beaches in the Caribbean.  We had a nice meal, then sat and visited on the beach.  It wasn’t long before a local with a speedboat approached us and asked if we wanted to take a ride behind the boat.  He had an inflatable that would hold 4 people.  We had a BLAST on it!  I was back on the ship by 5PM and cleaned up for dinner.  I shared my table with Jennifer, Susan, John and another solo traveler, Johanne from Ottawa.  It was this night that a particular waiter began to pay more than usual attention to me, without being encouraged. 


View of buffet area from two decks up.....

The next morning we anchored off of Tobago Cays where the crew would treat all passengers to an extensive BBQ meal at lunch.  They spared nothing and aimed to please. 

There was a small hike that could be done to the other side of the island where reportedly, turtles could be seen.  As my back has been troubling me, I opted not to hike and just hear Jennifer’s stories upon her return.  I enjoyed a nice salmon dinner that night sitting with “solos”.  A steel band would perform at 10PM and liven up the entire ship.

Now we are at the mid-point of the trip and we would arrive at St. Vincent, where Susan and John and I would sight see.  I was a bit disappointed with this port stop as the offerings on the street would be the same shipped from China products I see in Guyana.  We boarded the ship near noon and found ourselves in Bequia by afternoon.  

I could handle this view all year long.........

Susan had visited a turtle sanctuary 30 years ago and we piled into a taxi along with Jennifer for a 15 minute ride to visit rescued turtles. What a fabulous place in one of the most picturesque places I have ever seen.  The rest of the shore visit was visiting local shops where we did find locally made products easily.  Another solo traveler, an MD from Boston joined our table that night.  The waiter aforementioned ratcheted it up a notch when he brought my dessert plate adorned with a heart.  Oh boy, the table got a kick out of that. I, however, was quite embarrassed as I am pretty sure this man has not crossed into his 30’s yet!  Later in the Tropical Bar I would have fun listening to a one man band give tribute to the Rolling Stones.  I can remember decades ago thinking what a hoot it would be to hear Rolling Stone music at an assisted living establishment-watching  the 60/70/80 year olds bobbing their heads back and forth.  There were a fair number of 60 and 70 year olds enjoying this fellow’s best effort.  Many of US were up and dancing…not just bobbing the head!

March 10 had us docking in two locations again.  First we visited Martinique in the morning and Anses d’Arlet in the afternoon.  I took an excursion with Jennifer, Susan and John to Botanical Garden of Balata and Fort de France while in Martinique. 

I found that this place is still ruled by France and found it odd to think of their capital as Paris!   While in the gardens, Jennifer and I were surprised to be able to walk along a suspended bridge for many platforms! I chose to rest and read in the afternoon and did not go into quiet Anses d’Arlet.  That night was the Captain’s Dinner with lobster and baked Alaska. Many would enjoy a talent show and more dancing in the Tropical Bar after dinner.

The last full day at sea would find us calling two ports once again.  First was Marigot Bay, St. Lucia.  It was quite a shock to see immense, opulent yachts moored here.  So, THIS is how the rich and famous live! 

Later we would be at Soufriere, St. Lucia.  I took an excursion here to Diamond Botanical Gardens, Mineral Baths and Waterfall.  It absolutely poured on us in the garden!  From there, our bus would take us to a large active volcanic area.  Yes, it smelled like rotten eggs.  Our director assured us that it was to our benefit that we smelled it.  Our last stop was at a lovely inn and restaurant, Villa des Pitons Restaurant, where we enjoyed rum punch and saw our ship docked near the grand Piton’s National Park. 

A dream come true destination.....St. Lucia

Later that night, again I sat primarily with solo travelers.  It was a bit rough sailing and one member excused herself to her room.  That was probably fortunate on her part.  As the vessel continued to sail back to Barbados, we found ourselves being attacked by enormous swells.  I took a glance at my water glass and saw the water line at a “two and eight” position.  I had heard that the pitch of the ship was considered safe at 10% or less.  Clearly, this was beyond.  Soon my butter knife fell off the plate and I was trying my best not to be toppled onto the floor as another patron had done.  I watched in amazement as servers continued to gracefully carry and deliver 4-6 dinners at one time.  I did enjoy my dinner of duck even though I kept one hand gripped to the table and my legs in a rather unladylike position for balance!  Later, I would ask Wilhome, my “friend” just how he and others managed to keep their composure.  He said he simply forged ahead with knees slightly bent.  Before the dinner hour was done, several trays of food, plates and serving pieces would topple.  I insisted on sitting at the table rather than try to make my way anywhere.  Finally, I realized I needed to pack and have my suitcase in the hall by 4AM. I made my best attempt at NOT looking like a drunken sailor and got into my room where the fun would really begin.  Luckily, I was wearing pressure bands and never felt queasy but I did feel completely out of control.  It took about two hours to pack.  I would roll and place a piece and the movement would unroll!  At last I was packed and I finally got on top of the bed only to be pitched back and forth.  Now, seriously, where are the tethers? I decided to use a technique I found worked in Guyana if one sleeps in a hammock.  I placed myself diagonally across the bed and soon fell asleep singing, “Rock-a-bye Baby”!

On the day of departure, we had the usual magnificent presentation of food.  How DO the chefs and cooks work when things are sliding around?  I am impressed!  In spite of the tumultuous last night at sea, I would most certainly do a voyage on the Royal Clipper again!  Some other items of interest on the cruise: several nights KLOVE provided a ½ - 1 hour presentation with a recorded artist, a bridge tour, an engine room tour, a mast climb (not me), and most impressive in my opinion was the raising of the masts to the movie music of “1492”.  Most travelers could not get enough…very emotional!

I arrived back into my village and it all seems like a wonderful dream.  I have pictures though and know it was one fascinating journey!  So,  did not find Johnny, but I found a good runner up!

 What do you think?